The Engadin by road

The Upper Engadin is a high valley in southeastern Switzerland, a chain of lakes set among larch forests at around 1,800 metres. It is famous for its light, which painters have tried to capture for more than a century. For a driver, it has something else: three great mountain passes, all within an hour of St. Moritz.

The Julier: the way in

From Zurich, most travellers arrive over the Julier Pass. It is a broad, well-engineered road that climbs above the treeline before dropping down into Silvaplana, and it is generally kept open year-round. On a clear afternoon, the first view of the lakes below is the best arrival in the Alps.

The Maloja: hairpins to Italy

At the southwestern end of the valley, the road reaches the Maloja Pass and simply falls away. A tight series of hairpins descends into the Italian-speaking Val Bregaglia and on toward Lake Como. Drive it early, before tour coaches appear, and stop for lunch in one of the stone villages below.

The Bernina: glaciers and a railway

To the southeast, the Bernina Pass climbs past glaciers and lakes toward Poschiavo and Valtellina. Here the railway is as famous as the road. The Rhaetian Railway's Albula and Bernina lines are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and taking the train for one leg is a pleasure for the driver, too.

Driving well at altitude

• Check pass status before you set out. Some high passes close in winter, and weather can close others temporarily.
• Winter equipment. In season, carry chains or have winter tyres, and allow extra time.
• Engine braking. Use lower gears on long descents to spare the brakes.
• Give way sensibly. Postbuses and heavy vehicles have their own rhythms on narrow sections.

When to go

The valley has two seasons. Winter means skiing and snow, and summer means lakes, walking and open passes. Between seasons, roughly spring and late autumn, many hotels close. Choose all-wheel drive for winter, and something open-topped for the long days of July.

Based on research. Always check road conditions, closures and hotel opening dates before travelling.